Dallas Food - DFW Quest for 'Cue (Part 14)

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DFW Quest for 'Cue (Part 14)
Posted on Tuesday, October 25 @ 20:19:20 PDT
Topic: Barbecue

I remember passing a couple of barbecue joints back when I stumbled across Walker’s on Malcolm X Boulevard last year. When I finally returned to the area for further exploration, I saw that both (including the one above) were no longer in business. When I stepped into a barber shop nearby to confirm that one of them was closed for good (since there were still furnishings and fixtures inside), I was told that, yes, it was closed, but that Hardeman’s, nearby on Martin Luther King, was better anyway. So that’s where I headed. Also in the Fair Park area is Two Podners, to which I also paid a visit. On to the food...

Hardeman’s BBQ, just east of I-45, at 2320 Martin Luther King Blvd.

In a recent report, I related a fairly positive experience at another location of Hardeman’s. That, plus the barber’s praise of this location, set my expectations. Though operated by the same family and having a similar format of barbecue and soul food, this location seemed to place a little more weight on the soul food (including some tasty looking oxtails, fresh green beans with new potatoes, mac & cheese, etc.). The pit wasn’t visible to customers, as it was at the S. Lancaster location, and the woodpile out back was rather skimpy. I sat in a booth, watching people come and go, many grabbing take-out. (The only non-employee who stayed there longer than I did was a gentleman peddling CDs and DVDs in an adjacent booth. Very reasonably priced.) Though less than half of the customers seemed to be ordering barbecue, I went ahead and ordered the usual line-up.

The MLK Hardeman’s brisket was unimpressive. Gray, somewhat chewy, and only moderately smoky, it skirted along the trailing edge of sandwich-grade. With a little spicy, vinegary sauce to liven it up, it was endurable.

The hot links, sliced lengthwise, were on the dry side and short on smoke, but otherwise similar in flavor to those at the Lancaster location. Good links, though not distinctive.

The short-end ribs were extremely tender, possibly having been steamed in foil. The soft exterior would be consistent with a wet heat for part of the cooking time. The flavor of the exterior of the ribs was particularly intense, boosted with a spicy rub and/or mop sauce. Though I prefer the firmer texture and purer, smokier flavor of the ribs I had at the Lancaster location, these weren’t bad, for what they were.

On the basis of a single visit to each (admittedly a thin reed), I felt the Lancaster location was more serious about barbecue. Though the MLK spot’s barbecue wasn’t bad, I’d be more likely to explore the soul food options on a repeat visit.

Two Podners, just off MLK, at 1441 Robert B. Cullum Blvd.

Two Podners is located directly across from Fair Park near the MLK entrance. One of the “two podners” wandered through the restaurant in a sailor’s cap, meeting and greeting customers. Autographed photos of African-American celebrities, community leaders, and political figures lined the walls. The place had the look and feel of a fast food restaurant--not just in the architecture (since the building apparently had been a fast food spot originally), but in the cool, orderly movement of the workers at their various stations. That impersonal vibe rarely bodes well. I went through the line (cafeteria-style), ordering brisket, hot links, and ribs.

The brisket fell just short of sandwich-grade. The meat was very dry, rubbery, and short on both flavor and smoke. Though I generally hate to see food go to waste, the leftovers were abandoned.

The hot link sandwich was no better. In fact, it may have been worse. These are the driest links I’ve ever had in Dallas-Fort Worth. The middle portions were unpleasantly tough, but closer to the ends the texture was almost jerky-like. Any drier and it would’ve been crunchy. A disagreeable quasi-burnt (but not smoky) flavor accompanied the poor texture. I can’t imagine this is representative of their usual sausage output. Totally overcooked sausages are rare (thanks to abundant fat content), so on another day the hot links would likely be at least acceptable.

Regrettably, the short-ends continued the trend--dry, tough, and with a burnt-sugar taste to the coating. I picked through the bones, hoping for a reasonably moist, tender rib, but couldn’t find one. Not at all enjoyable.

Two Podners disappointed. Everything was sub par--so much so that, despite having ordered two pounds of barbecue, I went home hungry and without any leftovers. Is this their usual quality? Were they struggling because of increased business from State Fair traffic? I don’t know. But unless I hear positive word from a reliable source (are you out there, Tex?), I won’t be going back to find out.

Caveats and Conclusions
All the standard caveats apply. These impressions are of particular cuts of meat on a particular day. Though the holy trinity of brisket, sausage, and ribs may be a good measure of a barbecue spot, it doesn't tell the whole story. But, for my purposes here, I'm honing in on the backbone of barbecue--the smoking of meat to perfection. I'm trying to find out if anyone, anywhere in or around Dallas-Fort Worth, is doing work that can compare with the best Texas has to offer.

Noteworthy Meats. Not applicable.