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Rich Folks' Biscuits (A Brief Survey)
Friday, November 06 @ 08:53:37 PST by Scott |  
Biscuits are flour, milk, salt, some butter/shortening, and baking powder/soda. Country gravy is milk thickened with flour and some meat drippings or fat. Biscuits and gravy, though delicious, are quick, easy, and inexpensive to make, which is why they've endured as a popular breakfast dish among lower and middle-class families in the American South. But what happens when biscuits go bourgeois? How do five-star chefs justify premium pricing for a commoner's plate?
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Late Summer at Tei An (More than Soba)
Tuesday, September 15 @ 17:32:22 PDT by Scott | 
Everyone likes Tei An. I'm no exception. There's no need to add to the superlatives heaped on Teiichi Sakurai; however, photos of Sakurai's work are often hard to find online (with the notable exception of The Brad's blog). To that end, here are some photos of several late summer meals at Tei An.
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Raising the Bar: Chocolate (Brief follow up)
Friday, March 14 @ 20:30:00 PDT by Scott | 
Amedei Chuao ($110/lb. in bar form) flourless chocolate cake at Doughmonkey. All I can say is, "Wow."
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Raising the Bar: Chocolate
Sunday, March 09 @ 21:46:48 PDT by Scott | 
Just a brief item to publicly thank two pastry chefs who, in recent weeks, have seriously upped the ante for chocolate desserts in Dallas: Shannon Swindle (Craft Dallas) and Rhonda Ruckman (Doughmonkey). On to the food...
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A Dinner at Stephan Pyles
Tuesday, December 13 @ 21:19:23 PST by Scott | 
Citizens and local governments in many cities across America recognize and actively resist threats to local uniqueness and identity. Dallas, on the other hand, seems unusually willing to court, embrace, and swiftly bed anything perceived to be the object of desire of larger, less self-doubting urban populations. Buildings by I.M. Pei and bridges by Calatrava will not magically teleport Dallas out of the provinces. Nor will off-shoots of upscale, out-of-state Italian or sushi joints. What they will do (in addition to making us look rather desperate and silly) is further erode any lingering authenticity in this city. At the end of the day, we’ll be left with a town that looks and feels--architecturally, culturally, and culinarily--like a cheap knock-off. So, I’ve looked forward to the opening of Stephan Pyles’s eponymous restaurant ever since it was announced. At last, an upscale restaurant from a local talent with longstanding ties to the community and some commitment to regional influences and ingredients. Hit or miss, I have nothing but respect for such an undertaking. On to the food...
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The New Nana
Monday, April 04 @ 07:53:16 PDT by Scott | 
Under the direction of Chef David McMillan, Nana was one of the best restaurants in Dallas for the past several years. (And with subdued lighting, tiered floors, skyline view, and art on loan from the Crow collection, it may still be the most attractive dining room in town.) The food, while sometimes conservative, was consistently good, as was the service. But with McMillan’s recent departure, the toque has passed to Anthony Bombaci, resulting in some interesting changes. On to the food...
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Trotter's, Exploitation, and Necessity
Wednesday, March 16 @ 08:09:00 PST by Scott | 
Late last year, I joined a couple of friends for dinner at the kitchen table at Charlie Trotter’s. One of those friends--Russell Arben Fox--recently posted on his blog some lengthy ruminations prompted by that meal. In this entry, I’ll be responding to some of Russell’s comments, which are really more social and economic than strictly food-related. On to the food theory...
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An Evening at the Tasting Room at Lola
Monday, March 07 @ 09:10:36 PST by Scott | 
In early June of 2003 I sat down for my first dinner at the Tasting Room. It was still fairly new and there were no local print reviews to go on. But on the strength of an enthusiastic Chowhound report from Doc, ExtraMSG (who was from Portland) and I decided to give it a try. My expectations were low. I was totally blown away. Since that early visit, I’ve been back a number of times and have yet to have a bad meal there. I recently had the chance to sample a menu Chef David Uygur had built around wines from Piedmont. It was, as always, fantastic. On to the food...
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Dinner Event at Aurora
Tuesday, February 15 @ 10:00:08 PST by Scott | 
About a year and a half ago, Dallas’s itinerant chef-genius, Avner Samuel, settled into an unassuming strip mall on Oak Lawn to open his latest restaurant, Aurora. The opening was quiet and soft, but word of mouth and favorable print reviews soon had the place hopping. Aurora’s pricing hovers at the top of the Dallas fine dining market; but so do Samuel’s careful, well-crafted dishes. A group of DallasFood friends recently gathered there to check out Samuel’s winter menu. On to the food...
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Pastry Tasting at DoughMonkey
Monday, February 07 @ 08:23:17 PST by Scott | 
Every January there’s talk about the best restaurant openings of the preceding year. But such discussions often neglect specialty shops that liven up the local food scene. And Rhonda Ruckman’s pastries at DoughMonkey, in Snider Plaza, should not be neglected. A small group of food-lovers recently gathered on a Saturday morning to sample the wares and chat with the talented Ms. Ruckman. On to the food...
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12 Stories (2 Pages, 10 Per Page)
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